There is magic in these here hills but also tales of evil – occultist Aleister Crowley was supposed to have raised the Devil in Carn Cottage, which now sits broken and vandalised on the barren headland, and was the site of one woman’s mysterious death during a night that locals still talk about in hushed tones. I visited the house this week and the unholy buzzing of myriad flies was enough to send me scarpering.
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